Because of the floor plan configuration here, a surveillance camera at the entry becomes helpful if not absolutely necessary. The walk-up at the front is just not visible from the kitchen/ dining/ family area. As such, electronic gadgetry will have to make up for it.
Some factors to consider when choosing a camera:
Wired or wirelessI chose hardwired despite the extra effort because it's generally a clearer signal and there's no risk of interception.
Day or nightIt comes down to your purpose. If it's for security, there's IR (infrared), which varies in brightness and quality with the number of LEDs built around the lens. Mine is considered "day/night" -- it's color, has no LEDs, but turns B&W and sensitive to 0.03
Lux illumination. Most color-only versions need a minimum of 0.5 Lux.
Imaging element, resolution, pixelsThe larger, the better. Mine is a 1/3" hi-res super HAD color CCD, whatever that means. It produces 480 TV lines, which is high, but not as high as some of the top end units producing 530 or more. My effective pixels are 768x494 -- should be adequate for a small TV.
Lens
Most have fixed lens and a pretty wide angle, but often it's hard to tell how wide an area or how close up you need until after you mount it. There's an
online calculator that helped me decide on getting this unit with a variable 4mm-12mm lens. My adjustments are about halfway.
Cable, connectors, powerWhereas bundled kits use special connectors (like S-video, which is near impossible to make yourself), the universal or older system uses BNC or RCA connectors on coaxial cable. Power requirements are mostly 12V or 24V. Some units don't come with a power convertor because installations can be multiple cameras fed by a central multiple-output supply.
Form factorSome features are available only in certain forms, like boxy with long interchangeable lens. Others, like hidden pinhole with motion detection, have limited features. I wanted a dome type first -- the features available happen to be sufficient. Vandal-proof versions are just those with special screws. Weatherproof ones have rubber gaskets.
PZTMine is not PZT, but PZTs are remotely controllable in panning, zooming and tilting. They're motorized and very expensive. Their cabling and controller requirements put them in a special category.
Monitoring or recordingAt the receiving end of the video signal, there's another slew of choices. There's computerized, which is software + Windows-based machine + interface card. Almost anything is possible with the right software. Then there's traditional separate devices. For separate devices, the newer systems are all digital, while analog is simply going direct to a TV, which is what I'm doing. I had considered a pricey VGA adapter with cheap LCD computer monitor, but the single use didn't justify it. Nor the potential burn-in worth it. Switching, recording and networking are other options requiring more equipment. Some even have their own
IP addresses built around a wireless camera -- but they have their limitations.
Vitek VTD-VPH412DN $235
It has taken me six months. Total cost, not counting the surveillance system or the payout loss to the fake roofer, but including all permits, material, labor, new tools, and the planter area, is nearly $8,000. In complexity and effort, it has exceeded my ceiling project of three years ago (but not counting the bow window or the office furniture in that one).
At the far corner is an opportunity to install a surveillance camera. I've already installed siamese RG-59 cable in the attic, routed to a central location. DC power will be fed from a distance, while the video signal will be available for distribution throughout the house.
Pittosporum Tarata -- supposed to be a densely foliated evergreen.
At least, that's what I think -- that it's too wet and not getting enough nitrogen. I'm not sure though. The Tenuifolium showed similar symptoms but came back only AFTER I watered regularly!
For sake of this tree, I might have to parch the entire area. Maybe replace the shrubs with succulents. I don't know. At least, I'll have to be extremely careful about giving them just enough water. It's elusive though. The underground conditions are difficult to assess.
All is well for this tree. It still takes a lot of water each week. Apparently it drains well at this location. This tree also tells you quickly if it wants water -- new growth is reddish and don't show up if dry for more than two weeks.
From upper left to bottom right:
Recommended by others, this stalkish, large-leaf perennial with a bright flower on top adds some natural dimension to the otherwise austere rectilinear brick box. It's also interesting to have the flower and nothing but the flower visible from inside the room -- and from the front entry over the side wall.
I got it for the white flowers, but studied it more only after planting 60 of them. If it "trails" forward into the driveway I'll just have to cut it back. The best thing is that it won't reach the underside of the bow window. I'm told it's very easy to grow. That's important for me.
Its grass-like verticality will hopefully contrast nicely with the horizontal facade. I wouldn't mind if it grew taller than the brick veneer background. This plant was the whitest green I could find -- important to stand out from the red brick, I think. And blue flowers! Red, white and blue flowers... whaddaya know.
Measuring about eleven feet wide and four feet out, the brick-curbed planter area is now ready for planting. The foundation vent has been fenced off with a bottomless redwood box capped with a sloping metal screen. The battery-powered inline twin timer is a Raindrip -- quite the BMW of irrigation timers. It's compact, feels rugged, has easy-to-read dials, and the battery cap is conveniently located on top.
The other way of attaching pipe to brick is by nailing to wood that's anchored with Tapcons. It would have been much more visible, so I played with a design for a "hose bibb screen" -- slender horizontal slats of redwood that would even hide the bulky timer unit. It would've had to protrude nearly 7 inches off the brick!
That gaping hole is from accidentally chipping off a brick while studying the width of the vent slots. The brick is just nonstructural veneer. There's an inside screen, but I'll probably insert a thin brick back in place, which may look funny. The vent will be fenced off from soil anyway.
A.K.A. Carson Myoporum, this tree looks amazing strong and grows incredibly fast. I should have measured the trunk size when planted five months ago. Now at 2.30 inches diameter three feet above ground (2.39 inches thick at one foot above ground), I think it has gained weight just over the first summer! Click on image to see why.
Today was dirt hauling day to fill the planter area.
What I discovered was that the bucket size of the front loader carries a bit more than 1 cubic yard, so ordering 1 results in close to 1.3! Even more so if you're friendly with the guy at the yard. I think while coming back on the freeway I heard the axle buckling. Then when I got back and shoveled it all in, I still had a wheelbarrow-ful left over!
This one lost plenty of leaves in early summer until I continued hand watering regularly. It had, however, grown much taller before then. I'm still unsure if it's happy or not. The leaves that dropped were from the bottom and inside, while the tips continued to thrive. I thought that indicates drowning in soil too wet. Apparently not.
Also planted two years ago. And like the Lemonwood variegated, it still requires weekly water. It tells you quickly (after about a week) with drooping leaves.
Just about two years in the ground. Click on the image to see previous update.
Roughly fourteen inches deep (vertically), the skylight well now looks much more effective lined with smooth white material. It's just the primer coat for now, but later I'll paint it white just the same.
Contrary to what I thought earlier, ventilation is required to framing regardless of insulation. I was planning on providing it anyway. But now to provide it in spades, I've drilled holes in the existing blocking and same in the blocking above the new beam. Now the ceiling can be covered without gaps, and the rafter bays will still get cross ventilation from eave to garage attic. Lucky I made all those screened slots in the eaves even though I thought it was unnecessary!
Rough electrical and junction box are done.
Update: double-layer cedar cover now has a light sensor. Click on photo to go to blog entry.
