Stucco complete

Day 4 (final day) of stucco...
Integral color for skim coat -- for the heck of it -- and it looks close enough to match existing! One 14-ounce color packet per 90-lb bag of stucco mix, says the stucco guy, without extra charge. It'll save me some good money for not having to paint at least two sides.

Stucco contractor = $4,600 (green cash deal)
Siding prep (stucco wrap, redwood trim, etc.) = $534
Total siding cost = $5,134
One problem area was above the bay roof. I had to get roofer back to remove some tiles and install special flashing. He'll come back again after stucco cures to reinstall the metal roof tiles.

Drain pipes

All drain pipes (DWV) are finally connected and tested. Test plugs are still in, and the required 10-foot head (almost a 20-footer in my case) is still holding after two hours.

The washer outlet box at each location has a Watts Intelliflow. It's a safety device that opens the water valves only if the washer is operating. The washer cord plugs into the device (dark square in the middle) and the device plugs into a standard wall outlet. There's also a leak sensor (not shown).

Underfloor, it looks like a maze of ABS, copper (original to the house) and cast iron waste pipes. The savvy plumber installed dedicated test tees and inserted inflatable plugs -- nicer than testing through cleanout wyes, he says. No "debris" flying back at your face upon retrieval.

Still needs some support straps...

One year Sandalwood

Planted just a year ago, it's the fastest growing tree I've ever witnessed. The photo doesn't quite do it justice. Notice this view is from above the shed roof, whereas previous photo (click on image) is from below. Specimen is described like a weed for good reason.

Myoporum laetum 'carsonii'
Carson Myoporum

Side door

Masonite Royal Mahogany Cavalier. I didn't care too much about the dark rustic style, but it was one of the few upscale doors with a "speakeasy" -- a tiny door within a door. You can see out without having to open the door, but there's still zero glazing! I think it's important for this particular location.

$938 prehung door +
$118 Schlage handle set =
$1,056 total cost. I splurged.

This is the beginning of "finish" or aesthetic projects, although rough work is hardly complete.

[Note to self: next time order NO latch holes in jamb because they're always misaligned]

New breaker panel

Best location for the new breaker panel is under an abandoned and unnecessary header beam (ceiling joists run parallel). So instead of gambling on the straightness of drilling with an extra-long auger bit, I decided to route concave channels on the surface (using a deep 1" core box bit). A thick, recessed, nail-protection metal plate will cover the wires.

2 AWG cable connects it (100-amp breaker) to the main panel through a run of about 97 feet.

Grounding rods

Electrician advised installing two ground rods and appropriate connections at all plumbing pipes to satisfy municipal codes. These are ten feet long to be driven their full lengths, but I have extremely hard soil at three feet! The one on the left is as much as it'll go with manual hammering. I'll need to rent a breaker hammer (to be used without the breaker bit).

Gas cooktop conversion

Amana AKS3040BWW from AppliancesDirect.com (lowest shipping + item, arrived in 8 days from Midwest). It's the only reversible 30" drop-in unit I found. The compromise when mounted lefthand is having the high-output burner in the back left and the low simmer in the front right.
[Update: I've swapped the orifice spuds so that the high-output is now in the front left. The low simmer cannot be swapped because the burner head slot for the electrode is smaller]
Plumber did an excellent job teeing into the existing 1" gas line. He installed a shut-off valve for isolated testing, which I thought was shrewd and smart. I prepared for him ahead of time by providing good underfloor access and lighting, removing old unit (temporarily), making new unit fit, drilling hole through floor, and changing outlet to 120v at the last minute -- minimizing the downtime.
Cost of appliance $367 + cost of plumber $450 = total cost of $817.
I should have done this years ago.

Brown coat

Day 3 of stucco...

Scratch coat

Day 2 of stucco...

Stub-out sections

I've decided to pre-install entire sections of the hose bibb/ irrigation and plumbing drain pipes before they do the scratch coat. The workers will have to work around them. It'll create a more seamless edge at the penetrations, whereas previously, the knock-out sleeves would require caulking.

Heavy cable

125 feet of 2-ga. 3-conductor copper cable weighs a good 100 lbs. It gets threaded in the attic from meter to new breaker panel!

Definitely not for the weak, timid, or, because of the tight spaces up there, large-bodied.

And at a cost of $625 (plus tax), it's a pain in the wallet, too.

Stucco lath

Day 1 of stucco siding...
Two layers of grade D building paper, then 1.5" x 17ga wire mesh stapled with 1" crown staples (which are not as good as large-headed spacer nails). There's a blotchy area above the bay roof, which is supposed to get flashing instead of weep screed -- to be corrected before scratch coat. Still passed inspection!

While that was happening, I made the access door. Hinges were left over from an earlier project. Still need some sort of knob or pull.

Landing ledger

More wall prep for stucco

7/8" inch is the objective stucco thickness, so I've installed stub-out sleeves protruding that much for landscaping water (white cap over copper fitting):
and electrical, which happens to be a perfect diameter-match between 3/4" PVC and 3/4" threaded conduit:

Ready for stucco

Preparing for the stucco contractor includes getting all edges, penetrations and borders in place (except the bottom weep screed). It's best to use redwood for exterior trim. I'm further backpriming everything, using adhesive caulk with hot-dipped galvanized nails and metal flashing where necessary.
I decided to use a 2x12 skirt at the bay, extending three inches below the joists. It will border the vented vinyl soffit, which will in turn hide the floor insulation. This area will also accomodate the heat pump plumbing, electrical and screening.
Gable louver frame was fabricated with 1x2's. It was attached from the inside because it's pretty scary up there on the outside!
Upper wall vent for the tankless water heater was made with 1x1's sandwiching a standard face-on vent.
Electrical box for wall lighting is rated for exterior, then further caulked. There are two of these, one on each side.
This circular block of 2x redwood will be the mounting base for a surveillance camera.
The only item left is the side door, which hasn't yet arrived. Stucco guy says he can start attaching the tarpaper and lath in the meantime. Yeah, every stucco contractor seems to disfavor the Tyvek Stuccowrap (in lieu of tarpaper).

At least it helps for moisture protection at every window and door opening.