Electric main panel

New electric meter panel is now in place. It's ready for the utility company. PG&E will (hopefully soon) connect larger wires from the power pole to supply 200 amps. Currently it's still a 100-amp service.

Surface mounting was necessary to connect both existing wires (inside the wall) and new (outside via attic). It's also less work. Then I determined it was better (stronger and prettier) to secure the upper riser pipe by going through the eave block instead of mounting on surface struts. The box became semi-recessed. A flat steel bar anchors the lower pipe (attachment to the box itself doesn't count). The old riser pipe will then be cut at roof level and abandoned after PG&E is done.

New conduit on the right had to miss the rafter directly above, so curved sectional PVC was used instead of straight metal pipe.

One electrician helped to purchase the parts. I did all pre-cutting and pre-fitting on my own time. Now second electrician installs everything in one quick afternoon.

+ $803 total parts (not counting 2 AWG cable)
+ $1,038 total labor =
= $1,841 total cost.

Patch-up work (roofing, caulking, painting) still remains.

Bay roof

Skilled roofer finally came back (on a Sunday) to finish the spot above the bay window.

It's a clever solution for an uncommon roofing material. Flat flashing was installed earlier in the middle section with its bottom loose. J-flashing went on the sloped sides. Both had stucco weep screed installed over it with an inch gap. Stucco was then finished.

Now roof tiles are tucked under the middle flashing and folded over the J on the sides, which terminate cleanly at a lip in the corner. Barrels then cover the hip ridge transition, caulked with roofing cement and covered with matching granulated stones.

It's both weather tight and looks good.

Tankless water heater

It's finally fired up and heating water. This Bosch 1600H heats 4.3 GPM and doesn't need electricity -- it has hydro-generated ignition. Another installation bonus is the use of common 5" type B vent.

The earlier slow leak is now completely eliminated. Testing at 80 PSI revealed an obvious hissing leak below the pressure gauge. Then 60 PSI stood tight for a full day, so a working pressure of 5 to 7 PSI should be no problem.

A tight interior door will frame in the closet. I might create a drainage floor later.

$642 tankless unit +
$250 parts and misc =
$892 total cost

Gas valve recessed box

Plumber (Gastite specialist) had installed the valve to dryer upside down, causing a slow leak. I've corrected it, and now the entire new gas line holds 15 psi for almost an hour, which is good enough.

New gas line (installed)

All new gas pipes are in.

Shutoff valves are installed for independent isolation of each circuit. The one near the old pipe allows for testing of the new circuit while minimizing downtime for the existing. It'll connect with just a flip of a handle when the utility company upgrades and relocates the meter and caps off the old stub.

Standard rigid metal pipe goes up the garage wall, then connects to a Gastite flexible pipe in the attic. The Gastite goes across the garage attic, down a stud bay (photo at right), into the crawlspace, then comes up as rigid pipe at the dryer and new water heater.

It's a one-day job for a certified Gastite plumber at a total cost of $1,580.

Testing, however, reveals a slow drop in pressure, so it's not yet 100%.

Garden at 8 months

The Canna is in full bloom with six flower stalks. The Lantana is spreading happily. The Flax Lily, however, has been dwarfed. Hopefully it'll catch up later. Click on image to backtrack.
Canna x generalis 'Firebird' Dwarf Red Canna Lily
Lantana montevidensis White Trailing Lantana
Dianella tasmanica 'Variegata' Variegated Dianella
Tasman Flax Lily

Submeter box

12x12x4 box was mounted during stucco scratch coat. Subsequent stucco coats made it semi-recessed and more weather-tight.
Closed box appears like the electrical box that it is.
Wood cover makes it appear (temporarily) like a bird house.
It's positioned at mid-window height for better viewing from inside. Previous posts (click on image to backtrack) shows it visible in the background.

Supply pipes

Finally, all copper pipes are connected. I had to make corrections to the first plumber's stub outs. His work was not code compliant (discovered prior to inspections, which will come after the gas pipes go in). Heights, spacing and anchoring were all wrong. That made for some interesting turns in the final pipework.

Also to my dismay, as I remember asking him, he doesn't deburr the inside of cut tubes, while I file mine down meticulously and noticed how restrictive it gets otherwise. It may not matter except for longevity of the copper pipes. Long term studies have shown that water turbulence from the restrictions adds unnecessary erosion.

It's about half of all the new fittings.

Oh well.

New gas line (layout)

It takes careful planning, research, calculations and actual drilling through blocking and sillplates to lay out the new gas line.

Plumbing stub outs

These are Webstone Isolator valves (above), sold as a set. They're designed for tankless water heaters with their upfeed direction and built-in ports for flushing and testing. The hot also has an extra port for a pressure relief valve, which connects horizontally and is always under pressure. It requires no less than 10 wraps of teflon tape or else it will leak -- I learned the hard way.

Pipe supports coming soon, then new gas line.

Kitchen sink is at the far corner of the room, so I've installed water hammer arrestors.

Copper pipes underfloor

Below water heater...
3/4" hot and cold through ledger (charred wood was by previous owners/workers; I would never let that happen)...
New ball valve tee'd into existing 3/4"....

Cost of building shell

Not counting the "soft" costs of design, engineering, permits, reproduction, etc., nor site preparation like demolition, debris removal, portable toilet rental, etc., the building shell alone came to $85 per square foot.

	Spent
Foundation	$7,570
Framing	$9,740
Windows and skylights	$2,469
Roof	$6,348
Stucco	$5,134
Exterior door	$1,056
Exterior paint (estimate)	$150
TOTAL COST of building shell	$32,467

That's for 382 new square feet attached to the existing house accomplished part time over three months and with considerable hands-on involvement.