HVAC base

Concrete is now in place. The two short pieces of wood near the middle are for attachment of the HVAC equipment, which will just screw down. I used deck screws spaced about 12 inches apart as anchoring studs for all embedded redwood.

Formwork for HVAC base

Flatwise 2x4 starts at the high end on the sloping existing concrete (far right above), anchored with double 16d nails hammered into drilled 1/4-inch holes. Tapered formwork was then attached to it for a level top. 2x12's continue over dirt, anchored with standard steel stakes. The 2x4 redwood is just sitting for a dry fit (the sections clamped for glue to dry). It will embed in the new concrete during the pour as a sill plate for some type of screen fence.

Soffit at bay

Floor insulation also goes in the cantilevered bay section. The soffit gets the same excellent vinyl material that I installed in the entry roof extension. Outlet boxes are adjustable for depth. One is dedicated for the mini-split heat exchanger, the other for general backyard use.

Underfloor lighting

Wiring for the underfloor lights (the concrete ground, a.k.a. "rat slab," makes it suitable for storage) had to go in before the floor insulation, which is my next inspection prior to the final. It's been almost 180 days since my last inspection, so I have to do it now or else apply in person for a time extension. Or the permit expires.

Mirror cabinet

Functional design concepts here include an elevated rear shelf/ back splash for extra space off the tight sink area... GFCI outlets inside the cabinet for things like an electric toothbrush charger base or a hairdryer, which can remain plugged in all the time (for extra safety and convenience) because there's a gap for the cord where the face frame bottom rail is left out.

Cabinet side panels are glued and nailed directly to the wall to maximize width. The adjustable shelf supports are attached afterwards.

Powder room.