The packaging for this
Velux Suntunnel TMR says, "installs in about 2 hours." Yeah right. They forgot to mention ONLY if you're totally familiar with this particular unit, only if you have superior all-around construction skills, and only if your roof/attic situation is the most simple and standard type!
Having said that, I can happily report that I've completed two more
Suntunnels, and they came together very well.
First, in generic terms I would call these "tube skylights." I have five of them in various stages of completion.
Solatube (or "solar tube") might be a more familiar brand. I had also looked at the
ODL brand at
Home Depot. But the
Velux actually sold for less (also through
HD), has a better reputation and a bendable metal flashing pan. I have one TSR going in the new Powder Room and four TMR's strategically located elsewhere, including these two.
The "T" apparently stands for tube. The "M" is the taller model with a pitched dome that compensates for roof pitch. The "G" is shorter (considered low-profile) with a dome parallel to the roof slope. Both "M" and "G" have a wide-neck metal flashing collar/pan and a smooth inner-collar insert ring. The "S" is similar to the "G," except it lacks the smooth insert and some other features. It's probably discontinued. The "R" apparently stands for rigid, while "F" is flexible. They offer three sizes: 10", 14", and 21" diameter, although the TMF seems not available in 21". All models come with a clear dome of either acrylic or impact-resistant, the latter suitable for hurricane-prone areas. My feeling is that the flexible tube does not transmit as much light as the rigid, especially over long runs.
Here's how two of my
TMR 010 units installed:
Previously I had the roof openings prepared for the roofer to install the flashing component, so those are already in.
I've been taking advantage of the bright attic for wiring installation, which is why I'm closing it off only now. I started by cutting the openings in the ceiling. The ceiling ring is secured by three screw tabs similar to those in a retrofit electrical wall box. This part was easy.
The TMR has a double-pane frosted plastic lens that fits snuggly into the ceiling ring. It'll definitely help to control heat loss and heat gain. While I'm not installing the TSR yet, it doesn't seem to be so tight, having only a single-pane lens (not shown). The trim ring then rotates into a slot in the ceiling ring.
Positioning is critical. The installed tube must clear all structural members, equipment, wiring, etc., while providing the shortest path from sky to the center-most spot of the space to be lit. It helps to know in advance every system that must intersect, including working access in the attic.
The insert collar (black ring below) is first pressed into position on the upper tube. It goes over a self-adhesive felt strip (provided separately, not shown) that wraps the tube lip circumference. This procedure is neither described in the directions nor as easy as it sounds, as some dexterity and finger strength were necessary.
The assembly then fits through the roof opening from the outside. Proper adjustment of the upper tube angle is important at this point because the insert is snug enough that, once pressed in, repositioning later will be tough. The black plastic is stiff while the mirrored sheet metal is flimsy. It feels like an airtight fit.
A nice feature of this inner/outer slip collar with smooth spherical contact is that it allows some aiming adjustment if the dome itself is off-level. The clear dome can then be secured with the four stainless screws provided. Click on any photo to go to roof completion post.
Back in the attic, marking the overlap helps to position each section for mechanical fasteners (screws). It's tempting to use tape alone as plenty of mirrored tape comes with the kit. But solar heat will cause expansion, contraction and eventual drying of adhesive.
The middle tube section (identical to separately purchased extensions) is a simple curled sheet of mirrored metal with double-adhesive taping along the edge. Sticking it together forms the rigid tube, but the tape is only good for temporary positioning. Pre-drilling is necessary despite the provided self-tapping screws because the sheet metal is very slippery and lightweight. A right-angle drill helps for tight spaces.
I've found it best to attach from top to bottom to contain "light leakage," but it's probably not a big deal. The lower tube is also adjustable for angle and can be loosely placed in the ceiling ring. The smallest screws provided are still too big for the three holes, while the holes themselves are located BELOW the ring stop, making them rather unintuitive to use. Once all the pieces are fastened together above it however, there's no place for the lower tube to go.
Nevertheless, for one unit I did fasten at all three points, only I had to use my own super tiny sheet metal screws.
Finally, a bright hallway! The difference, appropriately, is like night and day. The other one shown here is in a walk-in closet. Down-lights in photo are obviously not yet complete.
$177.65 plus tax for TMR 010
$162.00 plus tax for TSR 010 (not shown; to be posted later)
$41.80 plus tax for 4ft ZTR (two 2-footers in the box!)
...all
Home Depot prices.
By far the most aggravating part of remodeling is dealing with a sluggish pseudo-service organization like PG&E. The monopolized utility does not try to win your business on a personal level, provide any prompt attention if you don't have an emergency, nor offer any accountability for their delays. As a customer you have absolutely no recourse.
There's just a huge hole in the roof with the two weatherheads. They have to disconnect and reconnect before I can cut off the old one. My makeshift plastic was the only protection from those surprising July showers.
