Andersen friction glider!

I finally got around to staining the new Andersen 6040 "glider." Why stain? The outer sash is blocked by an awkward vinyl rib, which reduced the chances of a neat paint job. Excess stain could be wiped off, and the clearcoat afterwards is simply clear. Such a rib design (visible in previous post photo, at upper right) is another reason why this window is not up to par with Pella. Perhaps this is only on their 200 series. Luckily I had appropriate wood stain that goes well enough with the tan and white colors that I have planned for the window.

Upon removal and closer inspection of the operable sash, the gliding mechanism reveals itself as nothing but a couple of plastic friction blocks! No rollers. It's not truly gliding like Certainteed's glider, which have nice wide rollers.

And this explains why it feels snug and heavy.

Window performance

Here are the published numbers for the windows I've installed so far. Low numbers are better.

	Type	U-factor	Solar
Pella	Fixed	0.27	0.31
	Casement	0.30	0.28
Certainteed	Glider	0.38	0.28
	Awning	0.38	0.25
Andersen	Glider	0.35	0.33

Andersen glider

Andersen is now sold through Home Depot (or was it always sold through Home Depot?). This is their 200 series, which is very competitively priced. Adding the basic features I needed, however, like tan color (for exterior trim), low-E coating and standard jambs, made my actual cost higher. Construction type is vinyl clad wood.

It's a good unit, but I have some complaints.

Fit and finish are slightly off. It doesn't slide as smoothly as it should. It's too snug and feels heavy. I wouldn't call it a "glider" like a Certainteed glider.

Then there's a gap that causes the latch to miss the catch. The sash has to be pressed outward to meet it. Packaging was also disappointing. It comes in a nice cardboard box, but inside the box was no protection against dents, making handling of the box misleadingly durable.

Overall it's a good window. It's very effective in keeping out summer heat so far.

Total cost, after tax, for this 6040: $368.

Rear window trim

Window exterior is now complete. It took many small steps. The final step, for me as the owner, was, of course, cleaning it. But before that, it took many days of waiting for each coat of paint or bead of caulk to dry. I've learned that, perhaps because of the proximity to the salty bay, exterior paint on wood must be minimum three coats around here. And that's on top of at least one full coat of primer all around. Caulk was applied three times over, too. It takes only time and patience.

This is the egress window in Bedroom #3.

Back here I determined that 1x4 redwood was best — redwood for its natural resistance and 1x4 for enough "substance" to visually frame the window, while its shadow line was decent on the flat stucco field. It's also common enough to easily repeat elsewhere later. I backed it with 2x2's that filled the stucco gap nicely. The alternative would be using deck screws as a standoff to level the 1x4 at each edge, but I wanted something to ooze the caulk. Oozing is important. The entire trim assembly was first glued together in the shop, then nailed in place as a unit.



Cutting the stucco was the only nasty part of it. It's important to wear full protection that includes respirator, ear plugs and a full face shield. There's a lot of dust, smoke and sparks (from cutting through the stucco lathe). But with careful measuring and an accurate saw blade setting, it actually went faster than cutting through wood siding.

Outlets

Permanently sealing off the old closet doorway brings up a code requirement because of the gain in wall space. Any wall that's two feet in length or greater (with some exceptions) requires an electrical outlet. It's to provide reach for any 6-ft. corded lamp or appliance.

From an underfloor junction box that has 12-gauge tracing back to the breaker panel, I was able to bring in 20-amp power. This meant four receptacles would be no problem. And having the open-stud opportunity, I also decided to add telephone, cable and ethernet outlets, only it took some strategic planning to get it all routed in.

Note the metal box is attached with screws instead of nails. It's for durability. Holes where the cables come through were caulked to seal against air drafts and insects. Wallboard from the other room will cover all this.

Double access idea

Having two doorways into the same closet reminds me of a design strategy we sometimes use in homes for young families. Both doors would function as a nursery access. One of the rooms would be the parent's and the other a young child's, but while the child is still a baby and nursing, the access would be open and the closet not completely filled. Then as the child gets older, the door from the parent's side would stay closed while the closet is accessed only from the child's side. Often swing doors are used instead of bipass like what I have, but these two rooms can function in that way, too.

For this house I have to permanently close one off one side because the young family is not my target future buyer. (continued from earlier)