The metal angle supports have also been covered (above the head rail). See my shoji design post for details.
Dec 19, 2004
Shojis finally waxed
Wood wax was chosen over polyurethane clear coat because... well, because I was too lazy to apply 2 coats and sand lightly between each coat! With wax, you simply brush on, let sit, then wipe off. It's similar to waxing a car. Purists (woodworking masters) may even claim it creates a better finish. But also, my shoji is made of very slim douglas fir and pine — way too easy to get damaged in sanding.
The metal angle supports have also been covered (above the head rail). See my shoji design post for details.
The metal angle supports have also been covered (above the head rail). See my shoji design post for details.
Dec 15, 2004
Shop air filter
These things are excellent. They clean the ambient air at 500 to 1200 cubic feet per minute (CFM), filtering 99% of particles down to 1 micron. Or so they claim. It definitely helps with breathing the workshop air. Then your finishing coats will dry smoother too, due to less settling of dust — if you to do finishing coats in the same area. Really the best of all worlds. I didn't realize the full benefits of it until I got one myself.
I chose the 50-875 model from Delta due to the nicer features. Remote control. 3-speed. Incremental timered shut-off. But as with similar models from Jet and Craftsman, it measures a good 12"x24"x30" — not your typical small appliance. You got to have space for it.
Mine found a perfect spot sitting atop my new wall cabinet. The workbench is just below it, to the left (from where the device pulls in dusty air). These things weigh a good 50lbs, so a bit of planning helps if you want to put it high up in a tight location like in my case. I levered mine into place WITH the plywood platform. No sweat.
The only factor of concern other than a suitable location was fan noise. I'm glad to report that the highest setting is quieter than a large shop vaccuum. The lowest setting might be comparable to a kitchen cooktop exhaust.
The best price I found was from Northwest Powertools — $269 with free shipping and no sales tax.
I chose the 50-875 model from Delta due to the nicer features. Remote control. 3-speed. Incremental timered shut-off. But as with similar models from Jet and Craftsman, it measures a good 12"x24"x30" — not your typical small appliance. You got to have space for it.
Mine found a perfect spot sitting atop my new wall cabinet. The workbench is just below it, to the left (from where the device pulls in dusty air). These things weigh a good 50lbs, so a bit of planning helps if you want to put it high up in a tight location like in my case. I levered mine into place WITH the plywood platform. No sweat.
The only factor of concern other than a suitable location was fan noise. I'm glad to report that the highest setting is quieter than a large shop vaccuum. The lowest setting might be comparable to a kitchen cooktop exhaust.
The best price I found was from Northwest Powertools — $269 with free shipping and no sales tax.
Dec 14, 2004
Mail drop and cabinet
The original mailbox was a cheap little metal thing screwed to the wood siding near the front door. It's visible in one of the photos in my bow window post. It had to go. I needed something bigger. I wanted my vacation mail piling up INSIDE the house. But standard through-the-door mailslots sold at local hardware stores were no good. They're all too narrow and too drafty.
So I got this large commercial-style aluminum mail drop from Mailboxes.com (for $100) and built a faceplate that included the doorbell button. The maildrop came with an adjustable flap stop that's restrictive enough to prevent an arm from reaching through.
Digital modeling was indispensable. Tight projects like this require a careful study of form, function, style, material — even construction methods — all at once.
Accurate measurements were also important — precise hole-cutting was crucial.
Inside the house, a cabinet was needed to hold the mail that drops through the wall. Design factors include proper sizing for the quantity and bulk of postal mail, a door that's easy to open, a way to see the mail without having to open the cabinet door, and a style to match the room's decor.
My software also turns out quick colored renderings, which is essential for good decision-making. Here's how it first looked.
One other design constraint that I imposed upon myself: I had to use as much of the leftover scraps I as I could from earlier projects. This almost became a scrap project! The finished box ended up using maple from a previous cabinet construction, sepetir wood from my desktops, acrylic panels from something (I forget), hinges from a bulk purchase and aluminum flashing from a fluorescent lamp fabrication.
The only wood I had to purchase was a fancy piece for the top. I found some bolivian rosewood (pau ferro) for $21 at MacBeath Hardwood. I think the richness of the rosewood adds an immeasurable appeal.
So I got this large commercial-style aluminum mail drop from Mailboxes.com (for $100) and built a faceplate that included the doorbell button. The maildrop came with an adjustable flap stop that's restrictive enough to prevent an arm from reaching through.
Digital modeling was indispensable. Tight projects like this require a careful study of form, function, style, material — even construction methods — all at once.
Accurate measurements were also important — precise hole-cutting was crucial.
Inside the house, a cabinet was needed to hold the mail that drops through the wall. Design factors include proper sizing for the quantity and bulk of postal mail, a door that's easy to open, a way to see the mail without having to open the cabinet door, and a style to match the room's decor.
My software also turns out quick colored renderings, which is essential for good decision-making. Here's how it first looked.
One other design constraint that I imposed upon myself: I had to use as much of the leftover scraps I as I could from earlier projects. This almost became a scrap project! The finished box ended up using maple from a previous cabinet construction, sepetir wood from my desktops, acrylic panels from something (I forget), hinges from a bulk purchase and aluminum flashing from a fluorescent lamp fabrication.
The only wood I had to purchase was a fancy piece for the top. I found some bolivian rosewood (pau ferro) for $21 at MacBeath Hardwood. I think the richness of the rosewood adds an immeasurable appeal.
Nov 30, 2004
Broom holder
Would you believe I designed the wall cabinet to match this broom holder? It was carefully selected, too (what a surprise). Standard ones that use some kind of spring-loaded clamping action were no good — they cause damage to the broom handle (or whatever handle). Those that levered against a wall were also no good — they require a wall (then the long item damages the wall!). This is so much better.
It uses a patented gravity-type camlock. Just lift up and out. It may look cheap, but it works wonderfully. Bed Bath & Beyond sells it for $12. Costco sometimes stock a two-pack for $18.
I have three of them. I think it's the best way to hold long-handled items.
It uses a patented gravity-type camlock. Just lift up and out. It may look cheap, but it works wonderfully. Bed Bath & Beyond sells it for $12. Costco sometimes stock a two-pack for $18.
I have three of them. I think it's the best way to hold long-handled items.
Nov 29, 2004
Deep wall cabinet
This is just a simple wall cabinet that replaced some shelves in my garage.
The only unusual design factors were:
1. size to match Home Depot's 18"x30" cabinet doors ($40 each)
2. extra-deep shelves (and therefore, deep side panels, for a broom holder)
3. extended back panel to catch three wall studs
4. use up the leftover 3/4" maple plywood and solid 1x maple
Because of the stock door panels, my primary concern was dimensioning the width. I had to build the face-frame first. Then, after confirming dimensions on the computer (and reprinting the drawings), the top and bottom panels were cut. It's a reverse order of fabrication, cabinetmakers will tell you.
Every joint was biscuit-glued. The rear panels were additionally strengthened with carpenter's screws (not the usual wood screws) that really grabs plywood (purchased from the local Rockler store). Perhaps an overkill, but better safe than sorry. The finished 19"-deep box was then screwed to three wall studs with nine 4" cabinet screws (also from Rockler). It can hide a laundry basket!
The only unusual design factors were:
1. size to match Home Depot's 18"x30" cabinet doors ($40 each)
2. extra-deep shelves (and therefore, deep side panels, for a broom holder)
3. extended back panel to catch three wall studs
4. use up the leftover 3/4" maple plywood and solid 1x maple
Because of the stock door panels, my primary concern was dimensioning the width. I had to build the face-frame first. Then, after confirming dimensions on the computer (and reprinting the drawings), the top and bottom panels were cut. It's a reverse order of fabrication, cabinetmakers will tell you.Every joint was biscuit-glued. The rear panels were additionally strengthened with carpenter's screws (not the usual wood screws) that really grabs plywood (purchased from the local Rockler store). Perhaps an overkill, but better safe than sorry. The finished 19"-deep box was then screwed to three wall studs with nine 4" cabinet screws (also from Rockler). It can hide a laundry basket!
Oct 20, 2004
Lemonwood tree
Pittosporum eugenioides or Tarata Pittosporum
15-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $125.
 Moderately fast-growing evergreen tree to 35ft with a 20ft spread. Can be sheared to a hedge, 5-8ft tall. Fragrant, yellow flowers open in spring on unpruned plants. Foliage color is yellow green to medium green. Best grown in full sun to part shade. Regular water until established. Fertilize in spring with a complete fertilizer. Develops a handsome gray, curving trunk when grown as a tree. Densely foliated in either form. |
15-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $125.
Oct 17, 2004
Pink strawberry tree
Arbutus Marina
Strawberry tree
An evergreen tree that typically grows to 20ft in height with equal spread; can get larger with age, as tall as 35ft. Single to multi-trunked, open habit. Clusters of white flowers with a pink tint. Blooms almost continually through the year. Flowers produce large red fruit through the year. Plant in sun to part shade. Needs little to no summer water when established. Best in well-drained soil. Prune to expose interesting bark. Resistant to oak root fungus.
5-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $50.
Strawberry tree
An evergreen tree that typically grows to 20ft in height with equal spread; can get larger with age, as tall as 35ft. Single to multi-trunked, open habit. Clusters of white flowers with a pink tint. Blooms almost continually through the year. Flowers produce large red fruit through the year. Plant in sun to part shade. Needs little to no summer water when established. Best in well-drained soil. Prune to expose interesting bark. Resistant to oak root fungus.
5-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $50.
Oct 16, 2004
Lemonwood tree (variegated)
Pittosporum eugenioides "Variegatum" or Variegated Tarata Pittosporum.
Moderate growing evergreen shrub to 10ft with equal spread. Slower growing than non-variegated. Forms a nice hedge by shearing to 5-8 ft. Fragrant, yellow flowers open in spring on unpruned plants. Foliage color is yellow green to medium green with cream colored margins. Best grown in full sun to part shade. Water regularly until established. Fertilize in spring with a complete fertilizer. Tolerates considerable shearing.
5-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $50.
Moderate growing evergreen shrub to 10ft with equal spread. Slower growing than non-variegated. Forms a nice hedge by shearing to 5-8 ft. Fragrant, yellow flowers open in spring on unpruned plants. Foliage color is yellow green to medium green with cream colored margins. Best grown in full sun to part shade. Water regularly until established. Fertilize in spring with a complete fertilizer. Tolerates considerable shearing.
5-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $50.
Oct 15, 2004
Photinia fraseri tree
A sturdy evergreen shrub or small tree — grows to 10ft tall as shrub, taller as tree. Single to multi-trunked. Clusters of creamy-white flowers bloom in early spring. New growth is bright red, aging to dark green. No fruit set. Best when grown in full sun. Tolerates most soils. Requires moderate moisture. Good in heat. Attractive to birds. Good trained as an espalier.
5-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $50.
5-gallon size from East Bay Nursery: $50.
Oct 9, 2004
Tenuifolium or Tawhiwhi
Pittosporum tenuifolium (Black Mapou or Tawhiwhi or Kohuhu)Rapid growing evergreen tree or shrub to 25ft, slower to 40ft. Easily kept as a hedge (at 6ft if desired). Single to multi-trunked. Clusters of purple flowers bloom in late spring, flowers will not form on highly pruned plants. Mint green foliage contrasts with the black stems. Best grown in full sun to part shade. Regular water until established. Fertilize in spring with a complete fertilizer. Used as a lawn or street tree. Tolerant of windy seaside conditions.
Oct 2, 2004
Certainteed awning window
I love awning-type windows in a bathroom. It allows full ventilation even in light rain and hardly compromises you in inward view. These Certainteeds have dual-glazed obscure glazing to boot. Once closed, they're completely weather-tight and fully insulating.Despite its smaller retrofit size (due to being installed over the existing frame), the ventilation area is actual larger than the replaced slider because the entire sash is operable. The crank operation is smooth, positive and solid-feeling. It feels firm and secure. The double gasket design is excellent. I'm quite amazed at the high quality and performance of these vinyl windows. Highly recommended.
Total cost, after tax, of the 3020 shown: $267
Total cost, after tax, of the 2020 in adjacent bathroom: $238
Old aluminum slider shown above. Sash was removed, but frame was kept. Wood stool and apron was removed and rebuilt.
Sep 21, 2004
Out with the drip
I had to try something extreme. I decided to remove all drip irrigation to the area and leave it bone dry for a few months. I cleared out the weeds and ground cover. Tossed out the irrigation tubes. Capped off the PVC pipe. Mixed in some "super phosphate" (0-45-0) per recommendation of a nurseryman, to stimulate root growth. Left the soil barren, except for some mulch at the shrubs. Then just hand-watered the entire small area with a slow garden hose for up to half an hour each standing, and never more often than once a week during these very dry days. I did this for several weeks after the self-imposed drought. I don't know if it's too late. Or if weekly hand-watering is still too much. The soil did seem sandy dry before each watering.
This pittosporum looked sadly like a maple in winter.
Click on image to compare to Spring.
Pittosporum undulatum or Victorian box or Cheesewood.
This pittosporum looked sadly like a maple in winter.
Click on image to compare to Spring.
Pittosporum undulatum or Victorian box or Cheesewood.
Sep 19, 2004
Fungus on jasmine?
My jasmine seems to be developing a fungus. It was planted about 3 months ago. I have no clue what is causing it or how to fix it.
Or is it something other than a fungus?
Aug 8, 2004
Extreme closet makeover
How do you turn a standard bedroom closet into a fabulous getaway?
Total cost = $462 — actually the only extreme thing about it!
 | Just swap the pole for wire shelving, add cedar lining and paint the doors! It helps to own a laser level for a job like this. Those cedar planks can otherwise get totally skewed 21 rows up.
The mirrored bi-pass doors got a triple-coat sponge-effect paint over — leaving two narrow bands, which are really all the mirror this room needs. |
Total cost = $462 — actually the only extreme thing about it!
Jul 27, 2004
Bamboo flooring again
I installed the same vertical grain, carbonized (or "amber"), solid bamboo flooring that's in the adjacent room. By purchasing from the same source (Ecotimber, which luckily still carried the same exact product), I was able to further tie the two rooms as a similar environment, with the glazed door offering either privacy or transparency. The cost this time was $4.25 per square foot, which is slightly higher than before, but it's been over 14 months, so I'll chalk it up to inflation. Still, that's a competitive price. They now distribute through resellers instead of selling directly to the public, so your final price may vary.
Floor vents can be fabricated from scrap flooring material. You don't have to purchase it as a special item. They only need to float over the duct opening (snugly or otherwise) and provide adequate perforation to maximize the air flow. A slat design works well. It allows for the largest aggregate void area while keeping a strong supporting surface. An alternate design would be tight rows of drilled holes, but that would be more restrictive. Clean, flush, seamless designs like this require a compromise on frilly features like recloseable flaps and redirecting slats which are available in those standard, but ugly metal grills. Those features have dubious benefits anyway. Mine is just a simple solid vent.
Floor vents can be fabricated from scrap flooring material. You don't have to purchase it as a special item. They only need to float over the duct opening (snugly or otherwise) and provide adequate perforation to maximize the air flow. A slat design works well. It allows for the largest aggregate void area while keeping a strong supporting surface. An alternate design would be tight rows of drilled holes, but that would be more restrictive. Clean, flush, seamless designs like this require a compromise on frilly features like recloseable flaps and redirecting slats which are available in those standard, but ugly metal grills. Those features have dubious benefits anyway. Mine is just a simple solid vent.
Jul 15, 2004
Dimmable fluorescent downlights
 I found this dimmable fluorescent downlight at EFI (for $67). It comes with a 2,700K-degree TCX 4-pin 20W bulb. The room is about 12 feet by 12.5 feet, so I installed four, equally spaced by their illumination circles after mapping out the ceiling joists. For a flush, tight rim at the ceiling, I installed them using stiff wire batt insulation supports (about four rods per fixture) pressed downward on the housing lip instead of nails or screws. The only drawback to this method of fastening is that the fixtures would drop when, or if, the ceiling wallboard ever gets pulled off the ceiling joists. But that possibility is just too remote to worry about. |
 Switching had to be located at both doors. One location got a standard 3-way flat-rocker switch (the style that I'm pursuing throughout the house), the other an expensive dimming slider. Unfortunately, the only dimming flat-rocker style 3-way switch I found produces a slight buzz at less than full brightness. It wasn't designed for dimmable fluorescents. The only recommended dimming switch for this particular fixture is not 3-way compatible, nor flat-rocker style. I had to compromise. The buzz at the switch is noticeable only when the room is very quiet.Contrary to what many people think of fluorescent downlights, these work great! |
Jul 12, 2004
Still slow-growing
 While everything around it is becoming very green, these shrubs seem to be slowing down. The two nearest the house (foreground) seem worst. They're still the same size as when it was first planted! See previous post when it was greener and bigger. |
Emerald Gaiety Euonymus
Jul 3, 2004
Vinyl glider windows
When it comes to replacing a window (in a wood-framed building), there are basically three ways of doing it:
1) Remove and replace the entire window including frame
2) Remove only sash, replacing it with an entirely new sub-window
3) Replace only the glazing (i.e., re-glazing)
Option 1 requires the removal of some siding material. My Pella is an example. Option 2 avoids such mess (of cutting the siding material), but the new window has to be smaller because its frame (holding its sash) fits within the old frame. These are often called "retrofit" or "replacement" windows, and they either have a wide flange (sometimes called "flush fin") on the outside that hides the large seam, or installs using a Z-channel. Option 3 keeps the entire existing operating mechanism, and is more common with solid wood double-hungs.
Certainteed became an easy choice. Milgard was also on top of my list. These two are considered the best in vinyl by designers and builders alike, but their product lines actually differ enough that it's not exactly like comparing apples to apples. It might be more like comparing apples to apple-pears.
While Milgard has a broader line and greater presence in the SF bay area (due to a local factory), their reputation or "quality" is based mostly on service and prompt delivery. Certainteed is higher-rated in construction and performance (by CR among others), but nominally just for their custom line, which caters mostly to small orders. They have purportedly opened a new Northern Cal factory to produce simpler, lower-priced windows to compete with Milgard on larger output like tract developments, multi-family and other new construction. But the word has been to look for those "made in Corona, California," which is their plant that produces the custom line. Milgard, on the other hand, has their own top-of-the-line (fiberglass) to leapfrog Certainteed in performance and durability, and, in many ways, it's the best in its class — with a price to match.
I also looked at Anlin, which is a retrofit window installation company where they bundle everything as a full-service deal -- removal, replacement and cleanup that takes just a few minutes per window — often not even touching your interior blinds or curtains! The downside is that their product looks and feels inferior (compared to Milgard or Certainteed) and their installation lacks tight details (your luck with the installation crew may vary). They also do not include interior casework and trim. After all, finishwork is what makes windows look fabulous. Or not. My neighbor used them to replace his 11 windows and a sliding glass door at a cost of $11k. Not cheap, but for a no-sweat one-stop shopping solution, it's one big easy check to write.
Viplex has a similar offering (retrofit + installation) and claims superior performance. Their samples do show insulation-filled sash sections. However, I wasn't too thrilled about certain design details, like asymmetrical sashes (Milgard's vinyl is like that, too) and tense operating mechanisms. Their sales are commission-based. The quote I got for five tiny easy windows was $4k — seemingly a very comfortable margin for error!
Renewal by Andersen also came to the house, but way back before I installed the bow window (early July 2002). The salesman knew nothing about Andersen's regular line of windows and doors. Apparently they're a different division that caters only to residential retrofits, offering vinyl, wood and clad windows with complete installation and cleanup. His product samples did show the same Andersen quality, which is always excellent, but the salesman (a very "experienced consultant" as he boasts) failed the acid test I put to him: describing how to support the overhanging bow window and how to finish the area above it. He just didn't know much about window installation. He couldn't even write me a price quote, verbally uttering "$5k to $9k or more," and claiming they're a "high quality" company far superior to any other vinyl window replacement company. That's scary!
Home Depot's stock vinyls, on the other hand, are incredibly cheap, both in price and quality. There 3020 slider (they don't have the sizes I need anyway) sells for less than $90! They might be okay for garage or storage sheds.
So it came down to finding the best price on the Certainteeds. It was reassuring that their custom-size prices were very similar to Milgard's commons, with some vendors matching them dollar for dollar. It was easy shopping for me since I was seeking merchandise only, not installation. After getting 12 quotes on the three windows I need (4020 glider, 3020 awning, 2020 awning) ranging from $670 to $1,100 for Certainteed and $695 to $887 for Milgard, I went with the lowest bidder: Allied Building Products in Santa Rosa (CA). It was an hour's drive for me each way, but $670 (counting tax) for three custom sizes was a fantastic deal.
1) Remove and replace the entire window including frame
2) Remove only sash, replacing it with an entirely new sub-window
3) Replace only the glazing (i.e., re-glazing)
Option 1 requires the removal of some siding material. My Pella is an example. Option 2 avoids such mess (of cutting the siding material), but the new window has to be smaller because its frame (holding its sash) fits within the old frame. These are often called "retrofit" or "replacement" windows, and they either have a wide flange (sometimes called "flush fin") on the outside that hides the large seam, or installs using a Z-channel. Option 3 keeps the entire existing operating mechanism, and is more common with solid wood double-hungs.
 At my side yard location, I wanted low-priced vinyl retrofits. The existing windows were the ubiquitous aluminum-framed single-glazed sliders. On this facade, ease of installation was important. I didn't want to bother with cutting and patching stucco. |
Certainteed became an easy choice. Milgard was also on top of my list. These two are considered the best in vinyl by designers and builders alike, but their product lines actually differ enough that it's not exactly like comparing apples to apples. It might be more like comparing apples to apple-pears.
While Milgard has a broader line and greater presence in the SF bay area (due to a local factory), their reputation or "quality" is based mostly on service and prompt delivery. Certainteed is higher-rated in construction and performance (by CR among others), but nominally just for their custom line, which caters mostly to small orders. They have purportedly opened a new Northern Cal factory to produce simpler, lower-priced windows to compete with Milgard on larger output like tract developments, multi-family and other new construction. But the word has been to look for those "made in Corona, California," which is their plant that produces the custom line. Milgard, on the other hand, has their own top-of-the-line (fiberglass) to leapfrog Certainteed in performance and durability, and, in many ways, it's the best in its class — with a price to match.
I also looked at Anlin, which is a retrofit window installation company where they bundle everything as a full-service deal -- removal, replacement and cleanup that takes just a few minutes per window — often not even touching your interior blinds or curtains! The downside is that their product looks and feels inferior (compared to Milgard or Certainteed) and their installation lacks tight details (your luck with the installation crew may vary). They also do not include interior casework and trim. After all, finishwork is what makes windows look fabulous. Or not. My neighbor used them to replace his 11 windows and a sliding glass door at a cost of $11k. Not cheap, but for a no-sweat one-stop shopping solution, it's one big easy check to write.
Viplex has a similar offering (retrofit + installation) and claims superior performance. Their samples do show insulation-filled sash sections. However, I wasn't too thrilled about certain design details, like asymmetrical sashes (Milgard's vinyl is like that, too) and tense operating mechanisms. Their sales are commission-based. The quote I got for five tiny easy windows was $4k — seemingly a very comfortable margin for error!
Renewal by Andersen also came to the house, but way back before I installed the bow window (early July 2002). The salesman knew nothing about Andersen's regular line of windows and doors. Apparently they're a different division that caters only to residential retrofits, offering vinyl, wood and clad windows with complete installation and cleanup. His product samples did show the same Andersen quality, which is always excellent, but the salesman (a very "experienced consultant" as he boasts) failed the acid test I put to him: describing how to support the overhanging bow window and how to finish the area above it. He just didn't know much about window installation. He couldn't even write me a price quote, verbally uttering "$5k to $9k or more," and claiming they're a "high quality" company far superior to any other vinyl window replacement company. That's scary!
Home Depot's stock vinyls, on the other hand, are incredibly cheap, both in price and quality. There 3020 slider (they don't have the sizes I need anyway) sells for less than $90! They might be okay for garage or storage sheds.
So it came down to finding the best price on the Certainteeds. It was reassuring that their custom-size prices were very similar to Milgard's commons, with some vendors matching them dollar for dollar. It was easy shopping for me since I was seeking merchandise only, not installation. After getting 12 quotes on the three windows I need (4020 glider, 3020 awning, 2020 awning) ranging from $670 to $1,100 for Certainteed and $695 to $887 for Milgard, I went with the lowest bidder: Allied Building Products in Santa Rosa (CA). It was an hour's drive for me each way, but $670 (counting tax) for three custom sizes was a fantastic deal.
 Now for sizing and detailing purposes, it helps to have a sample section of both the new window and your old frame to study. My local Certainteed showroom was nice enough to give me an older section sample, which has a profile similar to their current product line, and I fabricated a sample of my existing window frame with a piece salvaged from an earlier project. Detailing the gaps becomes critical for performance and quality of the work. For the sill contact I cut a sloping wood filler plate that went into the aluminum channel. Extra-long cabinet screws fastened the jambs (not appropriate for every type of window). Caulking was applied generously to both the opening and the window unit before tilting up. All gaps were then filled with batt fiberglass insulation before interior finish jambs were fastened. I ripped them (clear pine) to match the proportions of the sash. Finish details like that add tremendous quality to the window as a whole. |
 | One of the nicer features on the Certainteed is the cam-lock. It pulls the two sashes together tightly and securely. Milgard's pinch latch is less secure, and I've heard is more prone to breakage.
For this window I decided to bring back the stool and apron detail since it was at eye level. |
 |  |
 Interior wood shutters from Smith+Noble finished it off and further improves the window's 0.38 U-factor. Total price as shown is $392 ($165 window + $46 casing & supplies + $183 wood shutters) after tax. Yes, the interior wood shutters was more expensive than the window itself! |
Jun 30, 2004
Casement interior
A decent profile was created from a Riviera casing, a rounded corner moulding and the extended jamb. It was the closest match to the Carolina casing that I've been installing elsewhere in the house. (Kelleher Corporation has excellent online moulding profile information) This semi-custom profile was needed because the required depth of the interior wood shutters was beyond the thickness of a single casing. I also decided to forego the typical stool and apron detail for this window because the shutters would dominate the look, and there would also be the chair rail.
| Custom ordered from Smith+Noble, the stained shutters was another splurge. It totaled $585 after tax and delivery. The advantages include a perfect fit, a super easy installation and a totally luxurious ambiance for the room. The online cost was also better than any physical store including Home Depot for the same quality. Additional savings can be had by compromising on the overall size, the louver proportions or the operating mechanism (related to choosing wood or plastic). But for my Pella? Not a chance. The old blinds were given away and are now a distant memory. | 
 |
Jun 21, 2004
Vines
It's summer solstice and a beautiful day -- perfect time to start my rear garden. My back yard has been rather barren. It still is! A blank 55-foot length of block wall was most beckoning of adornment. It really needed something. So I thought of vines...
I made a redwood trellis that's fastened to the wall with copper wire and deck screws. Every four feet got either a white bower, lavendar trumpet or star jasmine vine — all purchased from Home Depot. Pro gardeners have told me that they're too close together, that they'll overgrow each other. Maybe they're right. We'll see.
There was also a structural reason for doing this. The other side of the wall was eroding fast. It's a municipal easement on the other side, and they clear the ground of vegetation every year. Nothing is left to hold the soil from washing away, exposing the wall's foundation! My lack of backyard trees and shrubs didn't help. Even just two years of erosion revealed a lot. So the fastest growing plants that could hug close to the wall was needed. Thus, vines!
I made a redwood trellis that's fastened to the wall with copper wire and deck screws. Every four feet got either a white bower, lavendar trumpet or star jasmine vine — all purchased from Home Depot. Pro gardeners have told me that they're too close together, that they'll overgrow each other. Maybe they're right. We'll see.
There was also a structural reason for doing this. The other side of the wall was eroding fast. It's a municipal easement on the other side, and they clear the ground of vegetation every year. Nothing is left to hold the soil from washing away, exposing the wall's foundation! My lack of backyard trees and shrubs didn't help. Even just two years of erosion revealed a lot. So the fastest growing plants that could hug close to the wall was needed. Thus, vines!
May 23, 2004
Casement trimboards
Trimboard design was carried over from the adjacent bow.
Cheap knotty pine was fine for this location because of the good overhang. I repeated the bullnose sill using redwood. The outer layer of side and top trim (it's a two-layer design) was biscuit-glued at the corners and installed as a frame, which greatly reduces the chance of the seams showing after several seasons of expanding and contracting. Installing a "frame" assembly like this for trimwork is always better than nailing them one piece at a time.
So with a coat of primer and two coats of exterior enamel (and after double-caulking all seams), the final elegance came shining through.
As for surface finishing of the window itself, aluminum-clad wood windows (like these Pellas) need no maintenance beyond regular window washing. The cladding has a factory-baked enamel coat. You simply pick a color.
The bare wood edges, however, absolutely require surface treatment — and it's important to do so immediately after installation, or else the warranty is void in most cases. Since these are casements, the edge can swing out far and wide and get full weather exposure. The rubber gaskets also come into tight contact with the wood, with some sections rubbing slightly. It's just how they function. So the best finishing for these surfaces is not any kind of coating that would snag the gaskets, but a sealer — a parafin wax. Wood wax comes as a gel that can be brushed into all nooks and crannies. Then a wipe down of excess is all it takes.
I guess these Pellas turned out okay.
Cheap knotty pine was fine for this location because of the good overhang. I repeated the bullnose sill using redwood. The outer layer of side and top trim (it's a two-layer design) was biscuit-glued at the corners and installed as a frame, which greatly reduces the chance of the seams showing after several seasons of expanding and contracting. Installing a "frame" assembly like this for trimwork is always better than nailing them one piece at a time.
So with a coat of primer and two coats of exterior enamel (and after double-caulking all seams), the final elegance came shining through.
As for surface finishing of the window itself, aluminum-clad wood windows (like these Pellas) need no maintenance beyond regular window washing. The cladding has a factory-baked enamel coat. You simply pick a color.
The bare wood edges, however, absolutely require surface treatment — and it's important to do so immediately after installation, or else the warranty is void in most cases. Since these are casements, the edge can swing out far and wide and get full weather exposure. The rubber gaskets also come into tight contact with the wood, with some sections rubbing slightly. It's just how they function. So the best finishing for these surfaces is not any kind of coating that would snag the gaskets, but a sealer — a parafin wax. Wood wax comes as a gel that can be brushed into all nooks and crannies. Then a wipe down of excess is all it takes.
I guess these Pellas turned out okay.
May 17, 2004
Double casement
I was hesitant about installing the Pella Architect series window. It didn't have the same contemporary look as the Designer series bow, and they're right next to each other on the same facade. It took me this long to capitulate and just do it.
The old unit was typical of 60's construction — aluminum-framed, single-pane and a cheap slider. Like all my original windows, it was drafty and corroded. Heat loss was a big issue, general operability was another. It looked and felt terrible, too.
Luckily I had wood siding on this facade. A circular saw with a general-purpose blade was as fancy a tool as I would need. Like for the bow, the siding here was "surgically" removed down to the existing felt paper. This type of window replacement is more like new construction than retrofit, so every part of the old window was removed, which meant pulling out the nails at the original fins. The original felt, however, was kept as intact as possible. Exposure to bare studs at the rough opening was necessary for shimming and nailing of the new unit. Sheathing need only to be cut to the opening.
Unlike the bow however, installation and waterproofing for this flat unit was quite standard:
1) fold and staple the felt around the rough opening
2) staple an extra strip of felt along the bottom, tucked under siding
3) generously caulk the edges of the opening for window fin contact
4) lift window into place, then shim at bottom corners for level
5) check unit for squareness, then shim the jambs, but not too tightly
6) push again into the wall from the outside and nail all fin holes
7) nail through window frame (using finish nails), through shims
8) tuck side strips under siding, over side fins, over bottom strip
9) tuck top strip under siding, over top fin, over side strips
This becomes not just a window replacement, but an whole new section of facade with complete waterproofing, heatproofing and soundproofing improvements. And it looks wonderful!
The old unit was typical of 60's construction — aluminum-framed, single-pane and a cheap slider. Like all my original windows, it was drafty and corroded. Heat loss was a big issue, general operability was another. It looked and felt terrible, too.Luckily I had wood siding on this facade. A circular saw with a general-purpose blade was as fancy a tool as I would need. Like for the bow, the siding here was "surgically" removed down to the existing felt paper. This type of window replacement is more like new construction than retrofit, so every part of the old window was removed, which meant pulling out the nails at the original fins. The original felt, however, was kept as intact as possible. Exposure to bare studs at the rough opening was necessary for shimming and nailing of the new unit. Sheathing need only to be cut to the opening.Unlike the bow however, installation and waterproofing for this flat unit was quite standard:1) fold and staple the felt around the rough opening
2) staple an extra strip of felt along the bottom, tucked under siding
3) generously caulk the edges of the opening for window fin contact
4) lift window into place, then shim at bottom corners for level
5) check unit for squareness, then shim the jambs, but not too tightly
6) push again into the wall from the outside and nail all fin holes
7) nail through window frame (using finish nails), through shims
8) tuck side strips under siding, over side fins, over bottom strip
9) tuck top strip under siding, over top fin, over side strips
This becomes not just a window replacement, but an whole new section of facade with complete waterproofing, heatproofing and soundproofing improvements. And it looks wonderful!
Apr 17, 2004
It's very slow-growing
 It's looking okay in the spring with all the stalks turning bright green. But it has been in the ground 16 months. Does it really take that long?See previous post when it was first planted. |
Emerald Gaiety Euonymus
Does it look like it's drowning?
While the plants below it thrived, the tree kept losing its leaves. It was gradual. It seemed seasonal. I could not tell if I was over-watering or under-watering. Unfortunately I had the automatic drip linked to an existing irrigation circuit that fed all the mature boxwood shrubs at the other side of the driveway. Adding a new circuit was way too much work. Turning down the water kept causing the old boxwood to yellow and dry out. Boxwood is slow-reacting, too, so each trial-and-error test took months to interpret. After each experiment, I had to dial it back up to normal for the sake of the old shrubs.
At this point the tree has been in the ground for 18 months, and it's still struggling.
Pittosporum undulatum or Victorian box or Cheesewood.
At this point the tree has been in the ground for 18 months, and it's still struggling.
Pittosporum undulatum or Victorian box or Cheesewood.
Mar 1, 2004
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)