Anchoring to stucco

After many trials and errors (and research and headache and money spent) with various anchoring methods to stucco, I've finally found a really good solution. So good that it deserves to be blogged.I found these at my local OSH. They come in 3/16" and 1/4" diameters. Their short length (1") is important when you can't or don't want to penetrate the stucco all the way through.The important part is using the correct drill bit. For these 3/16" anchors, I'm using a 3/16" masonry bit. A regular twist bit won't penetrate.In stucco, a nailing action is better than a twisting action like with screws because it's not a flexible substrate. It's obvious to me now why a biting, friction-type metal anchor doesn't work over time. There has to be some give. Then stucco is softer than concrete or masonry, so compressible plastic further helps. It's all about applying just the right amount of stress.The nylon sleeve should insert all the way into the hole without any resistance. Nor should there be any loose play, like from a fracture under the surface.Driving home the nail takes four or five decisive taps with a standard 16 oz hammer. Once anchored, it feels strong enough to hold 50 pounds!

Rhododendron

Rhododendron Forsterianum

Fragrant, white flowers with striking yellow flare. Blooms February - April. Great peeling bark with age. Upright and compact grower to 5 feet. Medium habit -- not for coldest locations! -- A.M. sun only.

$47 each at East Bay Nursery.

Rain, hence, tarp

And quite the tarp of all tarps. Measuring a humongous 40 feet by 60 feet, I have it spread out folded over. I can tarp nearly anything now. Costs $117 plus tax from Home Depot....to avoid a mud bath once the heavy equipment starts.

Drain pipe at brick

Against any retaining wall, a drain pipe is a good idea. All I had left over from an earlier project was a three-foot perforated section and a solid 10-footer. But that's just enough.

Trench grading, filter fabric, drain rock, pipe, then dirt backfill -- in that order. A gradual slope helps. I haven't figured out yet exactly how to take care of the discharge, which should be very light given the tiny planter area.

Added sewer cleanout

Covered with a round box and cap that reads, "irrigation control valve," the cleanout plug and riser are ABS, the Y cast iron, while the existing 4-inch pipe is Transite. All connections were made with rubber boots and pipe clamps.

This is needed because the spot where the existing sewer cleanout is located will become the underfloor crawl space of the addition.

Transplanted blueberry

The sideyard area below the step-down is needed for both a future walkway and for construction equipment maneuvering (namely, the Bobcat), so I've decided to put one of the Blueberries out in front, where the acidic soil will also help it. It's been in the old spot about 13 months.

Acidic soil planter

I've decided to plant shrubs in this area where previously I had thought of installing a sump pump. Underfloor wetness from past winters seemed to have penetrated from this area, but I'm hoping it's not underground hydrostatic pressure and just the roof downspout, which I've already diverted to the sideyard. It's the opportunity to add more "softness" to the front facade that I can't pass up. Plants can also help with soil retention.

I'm thinking of Rhododendron, so this new soil is an acidic blend. Deep beneath it is an organic compost mix to help break up the heavy clay native for better drainage. Hopefully I'm doing it right this time.

Block wall gone

Due to the required depth of the pier drilling, a vehicle-operated auger will have to be used (instead of a two-man auger), and the smallest capable type comes attached to, and takes power from, a Bobcat or similar small construction vehicle. They're generally 5 to 6.5 feet wide. I now have 6'-5" clear.

A nicer entry gate is needed anyway for better transition to the rear living unit. I already have some ideas.

Located sewer lateral

I was hoping the sewer lateral (buried pipe connecting house to municipal main) ran square with the house, clearing all pier locations on the north side. Unfortunately, it's actually skewed as it goes out, running real close to the corner pier.

As such, that corner pier location will have to be offset.

Blue lines indicate buried pipes. The crooked one on the left is my storm drain pipe from last year.

Apparently the corner pier will have to be located between the two existing buried pipes.

Foundation layout

The foundation system is a (friction) pier and grade beam system. There are eleven piers, eight of which will support the grade beam.